"Physicochemical properties are a key to the efficacy of cosmetics," Stéphanie Briançon, CNRS

Premium Beauty News - The cosmetic industry is particularly interested in your fields of study?

Stéphanie Briançon - The means of delivery for active substances is a topic of great interest. Reach the desired target and ensure that the administered product is efficient: it concerns not only the cosmetic but also the pharmaceutical industry, the medicine field–in the context of anti cancer therapies, and the veterinary field for topical applications.

We are working on liposomes which, indeed, are pretty old systems since the first patent dates back to 1964, but which are still relevant, being universal and effective. Our research focuses on their manufacturing and stabilization by limiting the use of solvents and by using biocompatible materials. Uses include encapsulation of anticancer molecules or the development of hydrating forms for the ophthalmic route.

We also focus on nanoparticles developed from biodegradable polymer-type polyesters (caprolactone, polylactic acids), polysaccharides and lipids based on triglyceride mixtures. The targeted particle sizes are between 200 and 400nm. They are used in the perfume area to encapsulate the fragrance and incorporate it in various formulations.

We also work in collaboration with dermatologists to use nanoparticles as vectors in immunobiological diagnosis tests, from contact allergies to perfumes. One of our research objectives for these particular methods of formulation is to reduce the inflammatory potential of molecules.

Premium Beauty News - At scientific congresses, there seems to be a proliferation of communications on Pickering emulsions. Your laboratory is also working on this topic, are products formulated that way going to be marketed?

Stéphanie Briançon - Since 2006, we have a doctoral student continuously studying this topic, which is indeed interesting more and more the scientific community. Pickering emulsions formulated with no surfactants but with solid particles in the interface between oil and water have specific behaviours. We have observed with silica particles, some modulations of hydrophilic of lipophilic passage of actives in the stratum corneum [1] [2]. This is very interesting to increase the penetration of an active or decrease the transcutaneous passage of irritating molecules like chemical filters. We presented at the IFSCC 2012 results on caffeine and retinol [3]. We investigate from organic particles like silica but also polymeric particles, where we seek to generate in the same step, nanoparticles and Pickering emulsion. This type of emulsion is an interesting study model for us because their interface is not completely solid. Commercially, they are still underdeveloped because they have the drawback of not having a pleasant skin touch, at least for those based on mineral particles.

Premium Beauty News - Skin decontamination is another topic of interest for your lab. Skin decontamination and skin de-pollution: could bridges be considered between these two topics?

Stéphanie Briançon - It is still too early to make assumptions. We are at the beginning of our work with a large part of it dedicated to the implementation of a methodology and with finding ways of dosing chemical ions at the skin level. We are working with the DGA on organophosphate molecules [4] [5] and the CEA on radio elements. We are at the understanding stage: how do ions penetrate the skin and how are they stored in a skin layer, with which kinetics? How can the decontamination of molecules or ions be assayed? To this end, we use such techniques as atomic spectroscopy and ion chromatography.

Premium Beauty News - How do you see the future of formulation?

Stéphanie Briançon - The future will very much depend on the development of analysis and characterization methods and on the efficacy of products in relation with their physicochemical properties. These methods can combine chemical, biochemical or mechanical data.

We are fortunate to have in Lyon the IVTV platform. A tour of the laboratory is planned during the post IFSCC Day organized on October 30, 2014 by the European Centre of Dermocosmetics (CED), with whom we are partnering, and which brings together in one place high-tech tools and experts in various fields, from biology to mechanics. We have much to learn from others. Exchanges are essential as well as partnerships with industrialists and foreign universities. In the Lyon area, the CED, of which we are a member, includes many actors with whom we are in contact.