Holistic beauty, role of the microbiome, benefits of natural ingredients, need for targeted vitamins and trace elements, general atmosphere favourable to self-focus… all these factors have played a role in the boom of nutricosmetics. Just like English-speaking and Asian countries, the pioneers of this trend already familiar with the gesture, the French market has gradually gained importance, from pharmacies to new distribution channels. It has also developed new galenic forms, new categories, and new combinations to provide this product of pharmaceutical origin with its cosmetic dimension.
Synergistic cosmetics
If beauty from the inside is a notion already fixed in the minds of consumers fond of nutricosmetics, few brands clearly highlight topical cream + food supplement combinations in their offerings. Launched in 2017 by Sandra Gasmi, the natural and organic-certified brand Demain Beauty already does.
“In 1958, an apple contained 400 mg of vitamin C. Now it only has 4! There is nothing left. So, if we want to stay healthy and have a beautiful skin, we do need supplements. As soon as I launched the brand, I started developing food supplements that acted in synergy with our cosmetic products for maximum efficacy. That’s why our products go in pairs,” she explains.
The glowing exfoliating cleansing gel Go for Glow is used with the Go for Detox supplement which cleans the body and plays on our glow, digestion and blemishes. The Go for Protection moisturizer and antioxidant + immunity supplement act hand in hand. And the Inside supplements will be added to the three anti-ageing skincare products recently launched.
To combine the benefits of nutraceutics with the effects of cosmetics, the Anjac Health & Beauty group, whose 14 integrated companies contribute to creating and manufacturing cosmetic and health solutions and products, launched an original premium range of health complements last June. The Liver, Immunity, Stress, Sleep, Joint, and Energy solutions come in liquid products to be assimilated by the body four times better than solid forms.
“We created a core formula to protect the actives and prevent them from being destroyed in the stomach. Their quantity is four times higher when they arrive in the gut, where nutrients are absorbed, than that of solid food supplements,” explains Matthieu Erre, PhD in Pharmacy at the Anjac group.
In addition, the laboratory worked on the notion of compliance, because the regularity with which the product is taken over time is key for its efficacy. They also put their innovation know-how in the service of brands, influencers, and distributors with a B2B offering based on efficacy and taste in the form of nutraceutics (liquid solution, gummies…) and nutritional products (functional drinks and food). Coming soon: a resorbing physio gel and natural energy drinks to provide energy and beauty with a low glycemic index.
The boom of gummies
A very well-adapted answer to the issue of compliance, gummies are currently the most trendy food supplements. In between a gelatine sweet and a health gesture, this new galenic form from the United States has appealed to a broader, younger panel of users. The global market should generate a turnover of 7.15 billion dollars by 2025, according to a Market Research Future study.
Both sweet and fruity, this small tasty gum boasts a sensorial asset that capsules lacked, being more drug-like.
“It is much more pleasant to take two small gummies a day for two to three months than swallowing capsules. There is pleasure, and pleasure is the key to compliance. It is the main difference with standard food supplements,” explains David Gueunoun, founder and CEO of the brand Les Miraculeux.
Launched in 2019, the brand exclusively dedicated to this product category soon imposed itself as a forerunner and market leader, alongside competitor Lashilé. The two young French brands have since shared the market with the main pharmaceutical laboratories who have also adopted this new popular galenic form.
“The assets are compliance with the treatments and bioavailability, because sugar is a good carrier; the effects are quick to come. It is also easier, because you do not need a glass of water, you can take it anytime,” confirms Fanny Adida, the co-founder of Lashilé. The brand puts forward the efficacy associated with the sweetness of its products. Every gummy contains 2.5 g of sugar, which makes 5 g a day for the recommended dose of two gummies. “It represents the equivalent of a spoonful of jam. It is very little and it has never been an objection for our customers,” says Lashilé’s co-director. Still, next spring, the brand will launch a “sugar-free” version of its slimming formulas.
This issue can actually make a difference. Les Miraculeux range already contains very little sugar, and there is a sugar-free version. “We are the only ones to offer this choice. It was the last obstacle that prevented some brands from going for this product form. Sugar can be considered contradictory with the health proposal,” says the Director.
Holistic beauty
This health proposal has a larger dimension. To historical claims focused on sun care or hair and nail strengthening were added new, rather unexpected categories: women’s libido for Lashilé, vegan supplementation, or supplements for the menopause with Les Miraculeux, who have also just launched a range dedicated to menstrual comfort.
“As a laboratory, with this form, we aim to target all family health needs from childhood to the menopause, from digestion to stress. We aim to keep exploring grounds that others do not,” says David Gueunoun.
The latest innovation in the food supplement industry is attributable to the Evielab brand. They have just added CBD – the star molecule of wellness and cosmetics – to their concept. This new generation of products in the form of dry microbeads to melt under the tongue, just like homeopathy, contains 5 mg of cannabinoids associated with the actives of each reference. Packed in a mini-travel size case, these microbeads can be carried everywhere for relaxation, concentration, sleep, sports recovery, immunity benefits… This new approach will be available for testing next spring.
