RetiLife, Givaudan Active Beauty’s new active ingredient, is a molecule designed to fight skin ageing. It is, according to the company, the first 100% naturally sourced retinol.
Fermentation process
This sustainable alternative to synthetic retinol was produced through the use of micro-organisms. First, pure retinol is produced in a natural carrier during a fermentation process from plant sugars. It is then combined with natural antioxidants to ensure its protection, even at a very high concentration.
“RetiLife is the first of its kind to offer a sustainable alternative to synthetic retinol with similar anti-wrinkle efficacy”, claimed Givaudan in a statement.
BHT/BHA or polysorbate free
With 100% natural-origin content, including sunflower oil as a carrier, the composition of RetiLife avoids synthetic ingredients such as BHT/BHA or polysorbate. Its molecule is identical to its chemical counterpart.
“Retinol is widely used in skincare applications for its well-known efficient anti-wrinkles properties. After years of research and development, we are thrilled to offer the most innovative and sustainable retinol on the cosmetic market and therefore open the door to new cosmetic applications. RetiLife is a game- changer in the beauty industry that responds to consumer demand for cleaner beauty products,” highlighted Romain Reynaud, R&D Director of Givaudan Active Beauty.
RetiLife will be introduced during in-cosmetics Global taking place in Barcelona, Spain, from 28-30 March, 2023.
“Throughout the years, Active Beauty has broken cosmetic boundaries by launching active ingredients that outperform competitors. With the launch of RetiLife, a unique hero cosmetic biotech innovation, we focus on creating consumer-preferred products that leverage our capabilities in line with our purpose,” highlighted Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan Fragrance & Beauty.
Advanced research in retinol
Retinol – one of the forms of vitamin A – is widely used by the cosmetics industry, due to its stimulating action on the skin’s natural defences. Indeed, Vitamin A maintains homeostasis of epithelial tissues and mucosa through its metabolite, retinoic acid. Retinol has demonstrated its benefits on wrinkles, stretch marks, skin blemishes and scars and is one of the most popular cosmetic ingredients, alongside aloe vera and vitamin C. As such, it is the subject of much research.
In November last year, Givaudan Active Beauty announced the launch of Siliphos, a natural alternative to retinoids with a very high tolerability profile.
For its part, Serderma has launched ReVitAlide — a lipid submicron particle carrying 3% active retinol. According to the Croda Personal Care subsidiary, this high-tech capsule provides enhanced stability, protecting retinol from degradation and making it easy to store and formulate.
Note also the launch of NovoRetin by Mibelle Biochemistery, a plant-based active ingredient that can increase naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin and thereby induce retinol-like effects without the need to apply retinoids topically on the skin.
All these different approaches contribute to place retinol as a cornerstone of the fight against skin ageing.
